Watering lawn basics

• Water your lawn according to the weather. In dry weather, water your lawn more frequently than you do during rainy periods.
• Water in the morning if possible. This ensures that less water is wasted due to evaporation and allows time for lawn blades to absorb water before nightfall when temperatures drop.
• Use sprinklers with a spray head instead of rotary heads; these produce a broader coverage pattern that will help ensure all parts of your lawn get watered equally.
• Avoid watering on windy days so that you don’t waste much of it on evaporation or runoff (which can also lead to weed growth). If there’s no rain in sight, use an automatic sprinkler timer set up so that it waters only when necessary—this way you won’t have to fiddle with any manual controls every day!

Watering lawn in dry weather

Watering lawn in dry weather can be done by sprinklers.

Watering lawn in dry weather can be done by hand.

Watering lawn in dry weather can be done by an irrigation system.

Stop mowing so low

• Stop mowing so low. Lawns should be mowed at 3.5 inches, not two inches or less. This gives your lawn enough time to recover from the stress of being cut, and it also helps you avoid scalping the grass by accident.
• Mow in the early morning hours before 10 a.m., when temperatures are cooler and humidity is lower (and your neighbors are asleep).
• Use the highest setting on your mower’s blade height adjustment knob—the one that results in a stripe of uncut grass across each side of the lawn leaving 3/4 to 1 inch of green blades above ground level behind it as you go over them again later after they’ve had time to recover from being cut too short during this initial pass through them with blades set higher up than normal so they won’t be damaged by being trimmed too low despite still being damp from dew or morning fog which can cause clumping around growth nodes such as at joints where wide blades have been used instead of narrow ones like sickles which would leave more bare spots between them under normal conditions but because these aren’t normal conditions we need more coverage than what standard settings offer

Teach those weeds a lesson

First of all, let’s talk weeds. Weeds are a problem for many lawns because they grow faster than the grass and outcompete it for nutrients and water. The best way to eliminate weeds is by pulling them up by hand as soon as you see them sprouting up through your turf. This is an easy task, but one that must be done often if you want to keep your lawn healthy and lush.

However, there are other ways to deal with weeds without having to get on your hands and knees with a pair of garden clippers every time they pop up:

• Use pre-emergent herbicides like corn gluten meal or Milorganite fertilizer (both granular products) around the perimeter of your property where there are no plants yet; this will prevent new weed seeds from germinating before they can even start growing!
• Switch up which type of fertilizer you use in your yard regularly; different types work better at different times during growth cycles–and what works best depends on what type of grasses grow naturally in various regions across North America!

Don’t let your lawn go hungry

Fertilizer is the best way to keep your lawn green, lush and healthy. You should feed your lawn in early spring and again in early fall. Fertilizer will help your grass grow strong roots that support the plant and make it resistant to drought, insects and disease. A good rule of thumb is to apply 2-3 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet (or roughly 10 lbs per acre) depending on the type of fertilizer you choose.

Fertilizers can be applied through a broadcast spreader or by hand with a drop spreader; both methods are equally effective at applying the correct amount of product needed for best results! The key thing here is not only knowing when but also how much product needs applied at any given time (this may vary slightly depending on which type).

Lawn bugs? Bag ‘em!

Lawn bugs can be a great source of frustration for homeowners. Fortunately, there are a few simple things you can do at home to keep them from making your lawn an uncomfortable place to hang out.

If you have a problem with:

• Lawn mites (tiny spider-like creatures that eat the roots of grass)
• Lawn grubs (annoying insects that burrow into the soil)
• Chinch bugs (small black bugs that feed on grass roots)
• Moths or scales (bugs that eat away at the leaves of plants)

When to call in the professionals

When to call in the professionals:

• If your lawn is overgrown, it may be time to call in a landscaper. Once you have a good idea of what you want done with your yard, it’s easy enough to find someone who can do this for you. The only caveat is that some people don’t know how far they will go and may not be willing to meet your expectations, so make sure that there are no surprises when it comes down to it.
• If your lawn isn’t growing well or at all, especially if it has been damaged by animals or pests, then hiring a professional might be the best option for you. They will look at the kind of damage that has been done and determine what needs doing next based on those findings before coming up with ideas on how best handle each problem individually while keeping everything balanced as possible overall so as not create further issues down the line (such as when trying different methods over long term periods).

Your lawn can be lush and green

You don’t need to hire a professional. A lush, green lawn is within your reach! You can do it yourself and save money in the process. If you follow these steps and use the products listed below, you will get a beautiful lawn that looks great all year round:

• Start by assessing your yard’s current condition. Is it muddy? Are there weeds? What is the soil like?
• Next, grade the areas where new grass will be planted so that they drain properly (this will help prevent flooding). Then add fertilizer and spread seed across those areas before covering with straw or mulch to protect it from birds and animals while it grows.
• Rake up any leaves or other debris that may have fallen on top of newly seeded areas once they’ve become established enough to withstand being disturbed (usually after two weeks), then mow regularly from then on out until spring arrives again next year—then repeat!

Conclusion

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